The 400 km drive from Port Macquarie to Brunswick Heads took me half an hour longer than Google maps anticipated. There were two reasons: Firstly it was the Friday before a long weekend, with lots of traffic, and secondly there are many kilometres of construction sites building a new four lane road up the coast. I think in two or three years, when it is all finished, the same journey will take an hour less.
I didn't stop anywhere along the way, not even at the Big Banana in Coffs Harbour, because I wanted to get to Brunswick Heads early afternoon so that I had enough time to set up my camp site in daylight hours. The caravan park was absolutely packed, and my site was surrounded by a group of families who obviously invested a lot of money in their gear. It was the camping equivalent of a modern suburb, with all of them covering their sites with numerous tents, trailers and cabins right up to the very edge. They all knew each other and I felt a bit like an unwanted intruder. I have never camped in such crowded circumstances before and there is not much privacy. I could understand every word my neighbours said and was kept awake by their snoring and other bodily noises. As I write this the long weekend has finished and almost everybody departed. My tent is surrounded by empty sites, which is much nicer.
At about 2 AM in the first night it started to rain quite heavily and kept it up until the next morning. I am glad to report that my tent didn't leak. Because it was still very cloudy and raining on and off I didn't go straight to the beach, but drove into Byron Bay to visit Australia's most easterly point. I parked at a place called The Pass, which is very expensive pay parking. I should have driven further on and parked at Watego Beach, where it is free. From there I walked around the headland, which is only about four kilometres and well used by joggers and power walkers first thing in the morning. I stopped frequently to take photos and took any side tracks to lookouts along the way in it still only took me about an hour and a half. After the walk I drove to Mullumbimby, a town about ten minutes drive inland from Brunswick Heads and had a look around some of the shops who sold hippie clothing and all sorts of paraphernalia. For lunch I bought a pie at the local bakery, which was recommended to me by a woman I chatted to in Bombala a couple of weeks ago. It was very nice.
Later in the afternoon I caught up for a couple of pre-party schooners with Ian and Mariette, who were also in town for Gordon's birthday party, which was the main reason for my stopover here. The party was at the Ocean Shores Country Club, which is a good old fashioned Aussie club, with pokies and cheap drinks. Gordon's party was held in a separate room and his kids organised a running slide show of photos from his life and played music from an iPhone. It was great to meet some of Gordon's family and also to catch up with a bunch of ex TOWER Software staff. The club set up a Greek/Middle Eastern buffet, which was fantastic. I re-filled my plate three times (and not just because it was free!). Thanks to the club's courtesy bus we didn't have to worry about drink driving, which would have been expensive, because the police was conducting random breath tests as the bus dropped us off back home.
On Sunday I needed some exercise to work off all the Lebanese honey doughnuts and the many beers. I looked on the trusty NSW National Parks site and found Nightcap National Park, which is near a town called Nimbin. Because I heard about Nimbin as the home of Aquarius, I drove there to have a look around first. The satnav system in my car got confused by all the roadworks that were going on around Byron and took me to places that I never intended to go to, and it took me a long time to get to Nimbin. The town is very colourful with lots of alternative shops, selling all sorts of herbal goodies. I think some of them may contribute to the generally very laid back atmosphere around town.
I drove up to Mt. Nardi in the Nightcap national park for my walks. I selected a couple of short walks that got me back to my car. There are some longer walks available, but it would be better with a car at either end, as they are not loop walks. I first did the Mt. Matheson loop, which is relatively level and 3.5 km long.The track leads from Mt. Nardi to and around Mt. Matheson. It goes trough rainforest and even where it leads along the side of the mountain you only get glimpses of views. But the walk was pleasant enough and I saw lots of plants that I haven't seen before and heard many different birds. There was not another human anywhere to be seen. The second walk I did was a 4 km walk to Pholi's Gap. This track branches off at the beginning of the other wallk and leads steeply downhill to a ridge below Mt. Nardi. At the bottom of the walk you get unimpeded views towards Tweed Heads. I had a feeling of instant gratification because it was all downhill walking to the view, but you certainly make up for it by climbing back up the hill to Mt. Nardi car park.
Not having a TV in my tent meant that I had to go to the Brunswick Hotel to watch the rugby league grand final later that day. I thought the game starts at six, so went to the pub about five thirty to get a good seat. To my surprise there was a huge crowd and a band playing. The music was a cross of Gipsy Kings and The Specials. The band was very engaging and had the crowd on its feet. Everybody between the age of 3 and 90 was up and dancing. The name of the band is Caravana Sun and they are definitely worth a listen. They played for another hour after I got there and then cleared the stage to be replaced by two large screens showing the footy. I wasn't really going for either team, but in the end I think that the Rabbitohs deserved to win. I must have spent too much time in the UK, some people I spoke to gave me a hard time for my pommie accent (and they were drinking tea and coffee, so not even drunk).
Today I spent a few hours trying to tease a fish out of the Brunwick River, but sadly I have to report that it will be meat again for dinner tonight. I thoroughly enjoyed my time here and it would be a place where I could settle quite easily, but tomorrow I will continue my journey North with a drive to Hervey Bay.
I didn't stop anywhere along the way, not even at the Big Banana in Coffs Harbour, because I wanted to get to Brunswick Heads early afternoon so that I had enough time to set up my camp site in daylight hours. The caravan park was absolutely packed, and my site was surrounded by a group of families who obviously invested a lot of money in their gear. It was the camping equivalent of a modern suburb, with all of them covering their sites with numerous tents, trailers and cabins right up to the very edge. They all knew each other and I felt a bit like an unwanted intruder. I have never camped in such crowded circumstances before and there is not much privacy. I could understand every word my neighbours said and was kept awake by their snoring and other bodily noises. As I write this the long weekend has finished and almost everybody departed. My tent is surrounded by empty sites, which is much nicer.
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| My home today, with a lot less neighbours |
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| Indoors, roomy enough for one person |
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| The view South from the most easterly point, where you can just see the lighthouse |
Later in the afternoon I caught up for a couple of pre-party schooners with Ian and Mariette, who were also in town for Gordon's birthday party, which was the main reason for my stopover here. The party was at the Ocean Shores Country Club, which is a good old fashioned Aussie club, with pokies and cheap drinks. Gordon's party was held in a separate room and his kids organised a running slide show of photos from his life and played music from an iPhone. It was great to meet some of Gordon's family and also to catch up with a bunch of ex TOWER Software staff. The club set up a Greek/Middle Eastern buffet, which was fantastic. I re-filled my plate three times (and not just because it was free!). Thanks to the club's courtesy bus we didn't have to worry about drink driving, which would have been expensive, because the police was conducting random breath tests as the bus dropped us off back home.
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| TOWER table at Gordon's party (photo courtesy of Simon Driscoll) |
On Sunday I needed some exercise to work off all the Lebanese honey doughnuts and the many beers. I looked on the trusty NSW National Parks site and found Nightcap National Park, which is near a town called Nimbin. Because I heard about Nimbin as the home of Aquarius, I drove there to have a look around first. The satnav system in my car got confused by all the roadworks that were going on around Byron and took me to places that I never intended to go to, and it took me a long time to get to Nimbin. The town is very colourful with lots of alternative shops, selling all sorts of herbal goodies. I think some of them may contribute to the generally very laid back atmosphere around town.
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| The HEMP Embassy in Nimbin |
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| Can anyone name this? It grew around the stem of a gum tree about 4 meters up. |
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| The lookout at Pholi's Gap |
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| Sunday Session at the pub |
The plant is a Staghorn/Elk horn.
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